Before starting with my usual collection reviewing, I have something to acknowledge. Fashion activities in Pakistan are in a very nascent stage right now. No matter how many fashion weeks we have in one month, everyone from designers and organizers to journalists and local buyers are still in their initial learning stages. Under such circumstances, it is very important that learning process goes on track and the industry nourishes and grows on the right learning curve.
Under this context, strictly speaking in terms of the designer collections on the runway, an ideal situation would be to have a fashion week where all points of view and aesthetics are showcased. PFDC in this regard has been right on track until now. In each of its fashion week, we got to see collections covering everything from western aesthetics, eastern aesthetics, minimalism, avant-garde to structure, colour-blocking, bohemian, tribal, evening wear and menswear looks. It is going to provide fodder for a lot of growth where all the designers instead of sticking with one trend and overlapping each other’s territories have found their each individual fortes and are working on building their own signature brands which is aesthetically different form other designers work. While Ammar Belal is considered western wear specialist, HSY has proved his mettle in evening wear territory time and again, House of Kamiar Rokhni presented a collection that explored colour blocking and minimalism and wowed everyone. Akif Mehmood and Zonia presented collections inspired by elements from Pakistan’s very own culture. Huma Adnan’s collection for Fnk Asia was tribal in vibe. Maria B went down bohemian lane. Student’s work can be described as avant-garde at best. Republic’s was a collection devoted exclusively to menswear. This scenario looks very promising and the industry(PFDC specifically) in retrospect seems to be growing in the right direction.
The collection was titled Suzani, it was a purely winter/autumn wear collection gathering its inspiration from northern boundaries of Pakistan. With floral embellishments and craft work on individual pieces, it was a collection very tribal in essence. Staying true to the title of the collection, Huma Adnan, the woman behind the collection had incorporated a lot of very colourful and immaculate needle work into the pieces.
In accessories department, models were sporting ethnic colourful braids. But it was the footwear that stood out and gave the collection a signature Fnk Asia funk.
In times when indigenous culture of Pakistan is dying and no effort on private or public level is being done to save and preserve the cultural history of Pakistan, it is always a very heartening sight to see a designer building a whole collection out of cultural artworks which are little known across the country, what better way can there could be of preserving our cultural heritage than by associating and merging it up with one of the fastest growing industry of Pakistan.
Zainab Sajid did something similar on Day 2 of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week last month, she presented a collection titled “Hala-Lujah” that was inspired by the historic Hala pottery work of Multan. Her collection was built entirely in white and shades of blue, the two primary colours of Hala artwork. Using silk and chiffon, she presented very lucid drapes and elegant cuts, her garments displayed an effortless fluidity and chicness. Motifs in varying colours of blue and patterns referencing and resembling Hala pottery were the USP of the collection.
Overall the collection was exciting and runway worthy yet very wearable without any Over the Top Drama. It was one collection that not only showed how to successfully incorporate a cultural element into wearable runway presentation but also showed how a basic theme and concept should transform into ready to wear fashion.
Lifestyle menswear brand Republic showcased their second collection at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week. The collection was entitled “Blaak Chrome” drawing inspiration from tribal prints and modern architecture. It was a very autumn/winter collection with avant-garde pieces. It was not the most impressive collection as it lacked cohesion among the various looks walking down the runway, the clothes were a bit too over the top for a menswear collection. Having said that, there were a lot of very exciting menswear pieces as well. Have a peek into the various hits and misses of this collection,
All the overcoats that he presented had the same problem, they were unwearable and would look unflattering on a body. The grey coloured overcoat with the weird cape coupled with the animal-print trouser in look 1 is a very drab look which no fashion forward man would like to be seen in.
While the overcoats were drab and unwearable, blazers were structured, decent and very wearable. There were tuxedo jackets and double breasted two-toned blazers that displayed variety.
Overall it was not the most impressive collection containing a few very worthy pieces but in totality the misses outnumbered the hits.
Photo Courtesy: Faisal Farooqui at Lotus PR